Monday, July 13, 2015

Vietnam, Cambodia, and being back in the US

Sorry for the delay in my latest post; I've been busy resettling back into the US and adjusting to some expected reverse culture shock. I arrived in the US last Tuesday, so it's been over a week being back. While I'm slowly getting used to my old life, it's still weird not living in a city and speaking Korean every day. I miss the ease of taking the subway and eating convenience store food and meeting with a friend in a cafe for hours. However, the fresh air, nature, and quietness of Michigan has been soothing. I've also been catching up with drinking Michigan craft beer, which I can now do since I'm finally legal to drink in the US. I recently started my position back at the MSU Asian Studies Center, which has been great because I really did miss working there. It has felt strange in that it is as if I never left; for the most part everything is the same except me. I'm finding it hard to talk about my experiences in Korea because people here don't understand what I went through and it's difficult to sum up a year's worth of experiences in a few words. I look forward to reuniting with my MSU peers who went to Korea with me because they'll understand my references to missing banana milk and eating kimchi every day, haha. Besides catching up with friends and starting my old job, I've been booking what seems like non-stop appointments and running errands. Once again I'm busy and my Korean "vacation days" are over. On a positive note, a received an email from Boren inviting me to a workshop in Washington D.C. in September that they will cover travel and accommodation costs for. I'll have to miss school since it's during the week but I couldn't pass up this opportunity so if my RSVP goes through I'll be heading to D.C. again!

As I mentioned in my last post, I travelled to Vietnam and Cambodia for a week with my friend Lea (who also won the Boren scholarship). I feel in love with each country and I would go back in a heartbeat to travel there for at least a couple of months. Who knows, maybe I can find a permanent job there in the future.

We left Seoul in the afternoon and arrived in Hanoi after a 4.5 hour flight. We checked in our hotel in the Old Quarter and then walked to a nearby lake to explore a little before we went on our food tour for dinner. At between 90-100 degrees with very high humidity, the weather in Hanoi definitely stood out. I consistently sweated, which made showering pretty useless but it did make AC feel exceptionally pleasant, haha.

A street in the Old Quarter.

Hoan Kiem lake.

The food tour we took was by far my favorite part of our trip in Vietnam. We met up with four other tourists for a 3.5 hour tour all around the Old Quarter. We ate around 20 different things and I posted a sampling of what we ate and drank. Vietnamese food blew me away. The flavors were so vibrant and fresh. I've had a lot of good food in my life, but Vietnamese food is the best I've ever had. I need to explore it more in the US because I'm not ready to let it out of my life just yet.

Fish, noodles, and various leaves topped with peanuts and fish sauce.

Crepes with beef inside topped with fried onions.

Mother's milk: coconut wine.

Spring rolls.

Duck in tamarind sauce.

Jelly ice desserts with various fruits.

Egg coffee, egg beer, and egg chocolate. The restaurant takes egg yolk, sugar, and creme and whips it up making the drink very sweet and creamy.

We then woke up bright and early the next day to take a 4 hour bus ride to the famous Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay consists of large limestone formations that are very unique, resulting it a very popular tourist destination. When we got to the Bay, we ate lunch on our boat and then cruised around the formations, stopping by a floating fishing village and a cave. 

The boat we took around Ha Long Bay.

The beautiful Ha Long Bay with rock formations.

Exploring Thien Cung cave.

After our bus ride back to the city, we ended the day with some food and more egg coffee (it is so addicting). We prepared ourselves for yet another long day, but this time at Vietnam's ancient capital and Tam Quoc, a.k.a. the inland Ha Long Bay. This time the bus ride was only 2.5 hours, and after we arrived we headed to the ancient capital to visit a couple of temples. While we were exploring, I asked our tour guide several questions about Vietnam, since I don't know much about the country and its history. I was curious about the language, since during the time of this capital's existence, Vietnam was under Chinese rule. Only the elite spoke Vietnamese, while everyone else spoke Mandarin. When the French colonized Vietnam, they forced everyone to speak French and then after Vietnamese independence, the Vietnam language as we see it today was created, which uses Latin letters (Chinese characters were used previously).

Gates to the ancient capital.

We then ate lunch before heading on a boat ride through the inland Ha Long Bay, a very memorable experience. The landscape was otherworldly and just so beautiful. The hour-long boat ride was also very relaxing. 

A river in Tam Quoc.

Riding under a cave.

Another view of the rock formations.

After the ride we took a short bicycle ride (around 20 minutes) to enjoy the beauty of what was around us even more. When we got back to Hanoi at night we grabbed dinner and then headed to a water puppet show, a uniquely Vietnamese art form. I was very impressed by the show. The puppeteers stood in water and controlled the puppets from behind a screen. The majority of the puppets were also quite complex with some spewing smoke and others coming in parts (like the men riding a small boat). 

The water puppet show.

The next day we left Hanoi to leave for Siem Reap, but not before throwing in some last minute trips in the city. I really wish we could've spent much longer time in Vietnam, because our trip was just too short. I could easily spend a couple of months exploring Vietnam. But I guess I'm glad I know this information so I can plan another trip in the future.

Before going to the airport, we started off our day with pho, a traditional soup eaten at breakfast. I thought it was peculiar that pho is eaten for breakfast, because everywhere else in the world people eat the dish for lunch or dinner. The reason why the Vietnamese eat pho in the morning is that they make the broth the night before and it's at its freshest in the morning. It was indeed very fresh and incredibly delicious. I don't even want to attempt to eat pho again outside of Vietnam because it just won't taste the same. 

Enjoying pho for breakfast.

We then headed to a famous prison just outside of the Old Quarter: Hao Lo Prison. The prison was used by the French during colonization to imprison rebellious Vietnamese and then was later used by the Vietnamese to imprison American POWs. The existing building is only a portion of what used to be there, but it was still fascinating to see how big the prison cells were and how the prison used to operate. What was also interesting was how the museum text talked about American involvement in the Vietnam War. The writing was very anti-American, which didn't make me feel insulted but rather intrigued. The writing was also very expected, though, considering the country is technically socialist. 

Hoa Lo Prison.

Lea and I begrudgingly left Vietnam to start our new adventure in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Cambodia really reminded me of India is that is underdeveloped, but there is way less people in the country. The lack of people is what stood out the most to me, especially since Siem Reap is one of the more populous places in the country. I also had a sad realization when I noticed almost no old people in Siem Reap, due to the past genocide and a lack of health care, a stark contrast to developed countries like South Korea and the United States. 

We spent the first night hanging out with our hostel owner and his family, who are incredibly friendly. He and his wife run the hostel and they have a toddler who was fun to hang out with during downtime. They invited us to join them for dinner and drinks and we talked about Cambodian history and politics. Being somewhat unfamiliar with the current situation in Cambodia (I've learned about the genocide in the past), the conversation was very interesting and memorable. 

We caught up on our sleep for the night before we spent the day exploring the countryside. Our hostel owner took us out on his tuktuk (a wagon/carriage attached to a motorcycle, a very common form of transportation in Cambodia) to the nearby Tonle Sap lake, the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. On the lake are several (I want to say close to 100, but I forget the number) floating villages where people live on rafts/boats as their homes. We took a boat out on the lake to explore the village, which was something I've never seen before. I couldn't imagine living on the water all the time, but I guess you would get used to it. We also visited Cambodia just before the wet season began, so the lake was very, very low (around a foot). I was honestly surprised boats were even making it through the water. 

Riding the tuktuk in the city and then in the countryside.

Boating in through the floating village.

We then took the tuktuk back to Siem Reap where we grabbed a late lunch and explored the downtown area, which included markets and restaurants. To capture the sunset, we went to the famous Angkor Wat temple. The one-day pass we purchased was for 24 hours, so we could see the sunset the day before and then all the temples the following day. The temple was breathtaking, but it was only an introduction to the many temples we would see afterwards. After sunset we headed to Pub Street, basically a street dedicated to drinking and eating. For foreigners, the prices are incredibly cheap, making the area a large attraction. Beers are $0.50 and mixed drinks were around $2, so you can imagine what the atmosphere was like. 

A view of downtown Siem Reap.

Pub Street.

The following day was a long one. We woke up at 4 a.m. to see the sunrise on the temple and then went to visit several temples for the rest of the day. From what I remember, we visited around ten, but there were so many more in the area that we could've visited. I was pretty "templed-out" but the end of the day though, so I don't think I could've visited more the following day. Angkor, the capital of the Khmer Empire, was the largest pre-industrial city in the world, and it's evidenced by the huge outlay of temple remains. I couldn't believe how large the land area was for the temples, and we barely scratched the surface. Each temple is unique as well, and I posted a sampling of photos below. I took a ton more photos of Vietnam and Cambodia that I posted on my Facebook, so if you want to see more (which I recommend because there's so much more to see), then visit my profile.

Standing in front of Angkor Wat.









We ended our long day (we visited temples for about 12 hours) with a cheap shoulder and back massage and dinner. The following day we had a late flight out of Siem Reap back to Hanoi, and then from Hanoi to Seoul, so we took advantage of having time during the day. Lea persuaded me to take around an hour-long ATV ride in the countryside, and while I was very nervous about it (I get nervous about driving vehicles in general), it ended up being a very memorable experience. We drove on all sorts of roads and trails, rice paddies, and villages where we high-fived and waved to kids. Most of the roads are inaccessible by car (since they are so narrow and full of potholes), so riding an ATV or motorcycle is the best way to get around. I wish I could've captured what I saw more accurately, but I guess that's what traveling is for: experiencing a different country for yourself instead of just seeing it in someone else's photos.

The Cambodian countryside.

Riding an ATV.

While our trip in Cambodia was short like it was for Vietnam, we definitely took advantage of every moment. Our hostel owner drove us back to the airport and I was sad to say goodbye to him and his family. I felt so welcomed into Cambodia, and that's something I'll never forget.

Saying goodbye to the best hostel owner ever.

Well, I can't believe this is my last post for this blog. I also can't believe that I kept up with writing posts all year. I want to thank everyone for keeping up my adventures both in and outside of Korea, and I look forward to having this as a keepsake for when I find myself in times of reminiscence.

Goodbye!! :)

Friday, June 19, 2015

Preparing to say "goodbye" to Korea

Hello, again! It's been awhile. I've never been so stressed about preparing for exams as I did for KLI, but they're over now and I'm beyond relieved. I received my results today and I'm happy to say that I passed! I received the exact same score on my final as I did on the midterm, 79%, but I was very pleased with my speaking (which I got a 85% on) and writing portion (which I got a 91% on) of the exam. While I'm very, very happy I'll never have to go to a KLI class again, I'll miss my classmates, especially the ones I became close to throughout the semester.

Saying goodbye to my KLI class.

My last school lunch at Yonsei. I'll miss getting these 5,000 won dosirak meals.

I also finished up my internship at PSCORE. I had a great time meeting such passionate individuals and I'll definitely miss my co-workers. I'll also miss being in an environment where people are familiar with and have an interest in the same events I am, such as Korean reunification and the situation with North Korean refugees in South Korea. In sum, I'm happy I chose to complete an internship this semester and it has been fulfilling in numerous ways.

The certificate I received from PSCORE.

I'm 2 days away from traveling to Vietnam and Cambodia, and I'll be writing a post about those when I get back. For now, I want to reflect on my time in Korea, and how being here has changed me as a person. I thought I was independent before coming to Korea, but engaging with a foreign country by yourself gives a whole new sense of the word. Traveling by myself no longer bothers me, finding a place to live by myself no longer bothers me, going grocery shopping and cooking food in a foreign country by myself no longer bothers me, and the list goes on.

I've also become to know myself a lot better than I did before. I've come to know the type of people I thoroughly enjoy hanging out with, things that make me truly happy in life, and what kind of future I want to have. My strengths have been challenged and my weaknesses have surfaced, but I'm glad this awareness has increased because it has prepared me for a post-graduation adult life.

Lastly, Korea, like other countries I've been in, has reminded me that the world is a small place. Humans are humans, and despite cultural contextual differences, we ultimately share core values, desires, and needs. The more people I meet, the smaller my world gets, and I come to realize how I'm really not that unique from other people.

To sum up my mixed feelings about leaving Korea, I've written a list of the items I will miss about Korea and things I look forward to being reunited with once I get back to the U.S.

Things I will miss about Korea:
  • FOOD. Seriously can't emphasize this one enough.
  • Public transportation
  • The convenience of living in a mega-city
  • Being able to practice my Korean by not even really realizing I'm doing it
  • My one-room apartment. It has served me well throughout the year.
  • My Korean friends
  • Pretty much unlimited access to shopping EVERYWHERE
  • Artbox (maybe it's a good thing I'm saying goodbye to Artbox because I've spent way too much money there, haha)
  • Korean ATMs

Things that I look forward to in the U.S.:
  • Friends, family, boyfriend
  • Comfy bed
  • Dryers
  • Polite people (people that hold open doors, say "Sorry" when they accidentally bump into you, etc.)
  • Nature. Allll the nature.
  • My job at the Asian Studies Center. I never realized how much I would miss working.
  • Breakfast food
  • Craft beer (yay for finally being 21!)
  • James Madison College and being challenged in content classes again
  • Not being stared at all the time
Like I said, this isn't my final post of my blog, but this post does mark the wrap-up of my classes at Yonsei and saying goodbye to the student life there. I've been taking these last couple of days to say goodbye to the friends I've made here and buy any last minute goods I want to bring back to the U.S. Just the other day I went to Artbox again to buy some goodies. 

Some of the sticky notes I bought from Artbox.

Last night I also said goodbye to my friends from India, Hisu and Ji Young. I met them in Itaewon where we ate at Vatos and then Hisu and I ended the night in Shiva Pub, a hookah bar in Sinchon. I know I won't see them again for a long time but we'll make a future meeting possible. I'm just very grateful I was able to reconnect with them in the first place since I've been here. Never underestimate the friends you made growing up because they may end up being an important part of your life in the future. 

Saying goodbye to Hisu and Seo Ha. 

Well, when I see you again I will have marked off two more countries from my travel-to list. I also wanted to say that I'm actually quite proud of myself for keeping up a blog consistently this year. I didn't think I would have the motivation to do it, but I'm really glad I did end up writing it because I'll have it to look back on and reminisce in the future. Anyways, I will see you in roughly a week!

Monday, June 1, 2015

Busan

I took my last trip in Korea over the weekend: a short journey to Busan. I now officially have a month left in Korea, which has been leaving me with a bunch of mixed emotions. Before going to Busan, on Friday I stopped by a huge "festival," if you would call it that, hosted by the Ministry of Unification in the Korean government in Gwanghwamun Square. At least 100 NGOs related to North Korea and Korean reunification were represented, including PSCORE. In addition to receiving a ton of free items, I also learned even more about North Korea and reunification, which I didn't think was possible at this point. For example, the Korean government currently doesn't archive defector information/interviews, and instead only NGOs do. Additionally, the problem of housing during reunification was presented. Which model would housing in North Korea follow? Would it privately owned or publicly owned? Would North Koreans pay rent? Would they have a high security deposit (key money) like South Korea? I never seriously pondered these questions before.

The festival in Gwanghwamun.

Another view of the festival. So many tents!

We took the KTX to Busan on Saturday, which was a great choice. Instead of a 7-hour bus ride, we took a 2.5 hour train ride on a super smooth train with bathrooms and plenty of sitting room. In other words, it's well worth the money to take the KTX to Busan even if it's for just a weekend.

Riding the KTX.

We left at 7:30 and arrived around 10 a.m., and we took a bus to the famous Gamcheon Cultural Village. We got off the bus and had to walk uphill, not a first for having lived in Korea for 9 months. The village is pretty much known for its artsy, colored buildings, so we climbed to a nice spot on a hill and took in the view. On the way we were greeted with several Koreans who wanted to take our photo, again, something not new but definitely more pronounced in the south. 

Gamcheon Culture Village.

Outdoor exercise equipment. Imagine if they had these in the U.S.

After walking around a little while, we headed to where our hostel was so we could check in. We stayed at the Popcorn Hostel, which is located a couple of blocks away from Haeundae Beach, Busan's and Korea's most famous beach. We took the subway down to the beach area, ate lunch, and checked in to our hostel, which was very clean and new. Korea is definitely on its hostel game. We then headed to a famous cliffside temple, Haedong Yonggungsa, by taking a cab. Unlike the majority of Buddhist temples in Korea, this temple is located by the coast. The temple wasn't anything new as far as architecture goes, but I did enjoy the ocean and the calmness that it produces. I'm surprised not more temples are built by the coast for that reason.

Haedong Yonggungsa.

Another view of the temple by the coast.

After visiting the temple, we took the cab back to Haeundae and ate dinner. Unfortunately, Lea and Marisa aren't big seafood fans, so as much as I wanted to eat the famous Busan seafood, I didn't really get a chance and instead compromised by getting Western food dishes with a little bit of seafood in it. If I go to Busan again I definitely want to focus on eating the food because it was something I really wanted to do but missed out on. After dinner we took the subway a couple of stops over to Gwangalli Beach, the beach known for its nightlife. We enjoyed the view of the lit-up bridge and then had some drinks at a nearby bar. It was nice being able to take it easy for our Busan trip instead of running around all the time.

Gwangalli Beach.

The weather on Saturday was rainy the whole day so I was pleasantly surprised when the weather turned out to be beautiful on Sunday. Our whole Sunday was spent chilling on the beach, which coincidentally had a sand sculpture festival hosted on it. Artists from around the world and Korea came to create giant sand sculptures for the public to see for free. There were also several tents selling food and crafts. The beach was very nice and reminded me of any other beach, but I felt out of place because there aren't that many nice beaches in Korea. I would love to live in Busan just to chill at the beach all the time and enjoy the water, something you definitely cannot do in Seoul.

Haeundae Beach.

Chilling by the water.

One of the sand sculptures in the festival.

Another sculpture.

Another view of Haeundae Beach.

I really liked Busan because it was so much more relaxed than Seoul. People cared less about looks and everyone was just more easy-going. Seoul can get so suffocating sometimes, so it's nice to escape once in awhile. Like I mentioned in a previous post, if I come back to Korea I definitely want to live in the south. Visiting Busan reaffirmed that commitment.

After being at the beach, we ate a late lunch and then headed to the train station to catch our 8 p.m. train. Despite not doing everything I wanted to do, at least our transportation was nice and on time the whole trip. I really love taking the KTX so much more so than the bus, and if it wasn't so much more expensive, I would take it all the time. I spent the train ride back memorizing my Korean speech and playing games. I arrived back in my apartment at 11 p.m. where I soon passed out from a long couple of weeks of traveling. I'm actually really looking forward to this weekend so I can sleep in for once, haha.

Like I said, traveling to Busan was my last trip in Korea. However, I'll be planning for my trip to Vietnam and Cambodia and studying for finals (which are coming up in 2 weeks, yikes), so I'll still be busy. I'm not sure when my next post will be, probably after finals, but until then, see you later!